GALLIVANT ISTANBUL
Fragrance

Review: Gallivant’s Istanbul & Brooklyn by Chemist in the Bottle

This is a reblog of a review by Lucas from Chemist in the Bottle about ...

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This is a reblog of a review by Lucas from Chemist in the Bottle about Istanbul and Brooklyn from Gallivant.

Road trip, two from Gallivant

It’s incredibly flattering for me when once in a while I receive an email from a perfume brand stating that they’ve been following my blog for a while & like my writing style, therefore they’d like to send me samples. For me it’s a great way of discovering new things but also to develop more personal relationship with a brand, because I have that 1 message I can later use for further contact. Few weeks ago I was approached in a way mentioned by Nick Steward, founder of Gallivant. The name rang a bell in my mind, so of course I was happy to try their fragrances. Gallivant as a verb means “to go around from one place to another in the pursuit of pleasure or entertainment” while the brand sources their perfume ideas from nomad life and being a traveller. Perfume is a destination here.gallivantIstanbul (shown above left) embodies “this feeling of an ancient city, but with a freshness, a modernity. An old luxury and a new confidence.” Its composition starts with a tart bergamot that is so diffusive it feels more like a shade cast by a citrus tree on a sunny day. It’s gone in a quick poof, stepping down to make room for cardamom. The latter one is more and spicy, with a crunchy and roasted background. There’s even something slightly caramelized about it. Its impression is followed by red thyme which gradually builds up an herbal aspect of the scent. This one is also a bit sweaty. Heart of the fragrance hides lavender absolute that is a marriage between floral and herbaceous elements. As far as I’m concerned I found its aroma to be quite dry & more herbal than floral. Geranium is a source of temporary feeling of something crispy and green but later it develops a sharp, minty undertone. Because it seems a bit metallic it feels slightly disturbing, at least to me. Later on I get opoponax and patchouli. They blend nicely together to create a multi-layer of woody, balsamic, earthy and sweet notes. It’s a source of pleasure in Instanbul the fragrance. The base is firing up with generous dose of rich vanilla, supported by beautiful, creamy spiciness of tonka bean. Amber adds a sensual warmth while sandalwood brings forth a seductive vibe. The drydown has some heft to it but doesn’t feel too heavy. It’s definitely the most interesting part of this scent.

Brooklyn (shown above right) according to the brand is about “non-stop go-go-go” while the perfume is meant to be “energetic with a creative and intellectual fizz.” In this case the opening is build around bergamot again but it lingers on skin, effusing tart, aromatic and zesty molecules. As soon as lemon and orange add their values, the perfume starts to be a kick of energy, very juicy, tasty and mouth-watering like a glass of freshly squeezed juice you could grab on your way to work. We have cardamom here again but much less accentuated, it’s all about citrus at the moment. However there is a twist to it when incense starts to sneak in, bringing some sheer smokiness with it. Who would have thought that it would smell so nice with lemon or bergamot. Later on Brooklyn juiciness becomes more clean. It smells of fresh air, clean cotton sheets with a little bit of ozonic notes. From citrus it gradually goes to pale, aquatic florals. I can smell silky magnolia and perhaps a little bit of water-lily but Gallivant uses a general term of transparent flowers. It does feel sheer, airy and with pastel colors. There’s also a gentle powdery vibe of iris here. The drydown has a fluffy musk accord blended with white woods that are delicate and that don’t add much weight to the scent. Amber (much lighter than in Istanbul) raises temperature a bit while benzoin listed among notes was barely there on my skin. Perhaps it was very subtle and got overlooked because of ambery note.

***

Both Istanbul and Brooklyn have decent projection and good longevity. They are interesting and quite easy to wear. Gallivant team decided to work with young perfumers  – Istanbul was created by Karine Chevallier while Brooklyn is a composition from Giorgia Navarra (trained by Bertrand Duchaufour). These 2 are a half of initial collection from Gallivant, other 2 represent London and Tel Aviv. Plus there will be another two appearing this fall. All fragrances are in eau de parfum concentration and since the brand is about exploring and discovering places, their bottle is travel friendly (and perfumista friendly) since it’s a 30 ml size. Feel like going to any of these two places?

To read more reviews from Lucas, visit Chemist in the Bottle

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Penhaligon's
Fragrance

Discover Savoy Steam from Penhaligon’s

SAVOY STEAM The latest fragrance from Penhaligon’s Savoy Steam is inspired by the first fragrance from ...

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SAVOY STEAM
The latest fragrance from Penhaligon’s
Penhaligon'sSavoy Steam is inspired by the first fragrance from Penhaligon’s, Hammam Bouquet, that was created in 1872 by William Penhaligon as a nod to the Turkish baths and saunas that were all the rage in London in that era. Where Hammam Bouquet is exotic, Savoy Steam is fastidiously clean; both beautiful scents in their own right.

Savoy Steam takes it’s name from the famous Savoy Turkish Baths that were at 92 Jermyn Street in London. The traditional Penhaligon’s bow on the bottle is made to look like a Turkish striped cotton towel.

This eau de parfum is a beautiful simple fragrance with notes of rose, pink pepper and geranium resolute. There is Tunisian rosemary that adds a spicy note and the base notes of incense, vanilla and white musk anchor the scent very subtly.

This is a fragrance for men or women and is an especially good scent for any man who wants to wear a rose scent but doesn’t want one that is inextricably mixed with leather and amber.

Discover Savoy Steam

HAMMAM BOUQUET
The first fragrance from Penhaligon’s
Penhaligon's Hammam BouquetPenhaligon’s first scent, Hammam Bouquet, was dreamt up by William Penhaligon in 1872 after inhaling the steam and sulphurous aromas of the neighbouring Turkish baths. This first fragrance was Williams’ lifelong personal favourite and remains one of Penhaligon’s bestsellers today. The base notes include musk, amber and sandalwood, the middle notes are of roses, cedarwood, orris and jasmine, and the top notes are lavender and bergamot.

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Fragrances by Gallivant
Fragrance

GALLIVANT Perfumes: Where are you going next?

Meet GALLIVANT, the modern indie fragrance house founded by Nick Steward, former Creative Director of ...

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Fragrances by Gallivant
GALLIVANT's Nick Steward

Meet GALLIVANT, the modern indie fragrance house founded by Nick Steward, former Creative Director of L’ Artisan Parfumeur. GALLIVANT is all about the belief in getting out into the world and discovering more. In feet-on-the-ground exploration. The freedom to wander and travel. These unique fragrances capture the vibe of the brand’s favourite destinations. Cool, creative cities. Unisex eau de parfums for urban explorers who like to travel light.

Always easy, always streamlined, these scents also come packaged in 30ml ‘nomad’ bottles to help you on your journey. Designed in London, handmade by artisans in France and England.

Where are you going next?

GALLIVANT LONDON

London
London, is a floral leather fragrance. With a watery green head, of cucumber and violet leaves. A floral heart, with Rose de Mai Absolute, rose oil and orris root. And basenotes of leather, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

GALLIVANT TEL AVIV

Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv is a bright, sunny, floral fruity fragrance. A fresh, fruity head, and notes of clementine, bergamot, and blackcurrant bud. A floral heart with jasmine sambac absolute, Comoros’ ylang ylang, rose oil and freesia. And a warm, musky base with sandalwood, musks, Deer’s Tongue absolute (liatrix) and benzoin.

GALLIVANT ISTANBUL

Istanbul
Istanbul is an ambery, woody, spicy fragrance. A fresh aromatic head, with notes of bergamot, cardamom, red thyme. A woody, aromatic heart, with lavender absolute, Egyptian geranium essence, patchouli heart and sweet myrrh (opoponax) essence. And basenotes of sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, amber and musks.

Brooklyn

Brooklyn is a musky citrus fragrance. A fresh, spicy, fizzy head, with notes of bergamot, squeezed lemon and orange juice. Incense, cardamom, ozonic notes. A floral heart, with magnolia and orris root. And a base of white woods, benzoin, amber and musks.

Shop GALLIVANT here

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Escentric Molecule: Molecule 01
Fragrance

Our Top 10 Best Perfumes 2016

We love to look back at the end of each year and see what were ...

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We love to look back at the end of each year and see what were our best selling fragrances were. Some of our best perfumes in 2016 were a surprise and others we just knew were going to make the list.

Molecule 01 best perfume in 2016

1. Escentric Molecules: Molecule 01
This cult classic is an easy winner. Molecule 01 consists of the molecule Iso E Super pure and simple. It’s what happens when you wear this scent that makes all the fuss. We can’t say that we always understand why it is so popular when you really only smell it on someone else and not yourself. Then again, we have heard one too many stories about people being followed in to some very interesting situations to not understand why you would not want to add this to your collection. We do love to layer it as much as to wear it on its own.

Thirty-Three

2. Ex Idolo: Thirty-Three
This scent has quietly grown to be one of our most popular. That thirty-three year old Oud is of course what does it. Velvety and rich, we think equally smooth, this beautiful fragrance tends to grow on you. It is romantic and sexy but never crosses the line. Equally popular with men and women we think it has found a solid following for years to come.

celeri_grande-1

3. Monsillage: Eau de Céleri
This fresh and green, but not too green scent, is a perfect addition to your chypre collection, or a perfect start to one. It may have won an Art & Olfaction award in 2015 but it is still growing strong with all levels of perfume lovers. There is something about that ‘celery blast’ that appeals to most if not all.

L'Air du Desert Marocain

4. Tauer Perfumes: L’Air du Désert Marocain
We are not sure how we could not have an Andy Tauer fragrance in our top ten, and this was an easy and clear addition. It is of course a must have for any niche perfume collector but it is of course a must have for anyone who is a serious oriental fragrance lover. Does it matter what the notes are when we are taken so easily right into the desert moonlight of a Moroccan desert. Wearing is believing.

Mona di Orio

5. Mona di Orio: Myrrh Casati
This is our favourite in the list. Its dark sensuality, its sophisticated complexity make it our go to scent when anyone wants to discover Mona di Orio or is ready to delve further into niche perfumery. Perhaps it is knowing that the inspiration is the Marchesa Casati that we also love. There is something in how the dark myrrh is mixed with the other notes of licorice, incense, and patchouli that makes it simply addictive.

Architects Club

6. Arquiste: The Architects Club
We love how Carlos Huber takes us right into a Mayfair Art Deco smoking room with this scent. We feel we are right there in a richly wood paneled library with rich velvet and much laughter. It is our favourite vanilla scent, probably because it does anything but scream vanilla, but layers it in at just the right moment with notes of juniper, citrus and spice to balance everything out.

Dame Perfumery

7. Dame Perfumery: Black Flower Mexican Vanilla
This simple and beautiful scent was a bit of a surprise to us, but it shouldn’t have been. The base of pure Mexican vanilla absolute is mixed with notes of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka which all together make quite a magical fragrance.

Juniper Sling

8. Penhaligon’s: Juniper Sling
A simple yet clever fragrance that has just enough English humour in it to make you want to splash on a little more. This woody and spicy fragrance works as well on men as on women. We think that when the perfumer, Oliver Cresp, concocted it, he truly found a way to embody London Dry Gin in a way that makes it totally wearable.

Heeley: Sel Marin

9. HEELEY Parfums: Sel Marin
We think this is simply THE perfect aquatic fragrance. It takes you right to the beach, but not any beach. A very sophisticated, and dare we say sexy one. The sun, sand, and spray are right there. It’s the end of a long and beautiful day in Capri, the Riviera, or St. Barth’s and the sun is setting. Everyone else has left the beach but you just can’t go. Eventually, you will head back to get ready for cocktails and dinner. This is exactly what you will spray before you head out to see what that hot summer night will bring.

Orange Sanguine: Atelier Cologne

10. Atelier Cologne: Orange Sanguine
Fresh and lovely, yet sophisticated and sensual. It is not just a splash of citrus, anything but. It contains notes of red orange, bitter orange, jasmine, geranium from South Africa, amber, tonka bean and sandalwood which all together make it an easy scent but with just the right touch of complexity. We find it works as well in summer as in winter and that says a lot.

These are our top 10 perfumes for 2016, but see all of our fragrances here: Fragrances at Etiket

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Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients
Fragrance

The Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients: Part Two

One of the most popular posts on our blog is What are the Most Expensive ...

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One of the most popular posts on our blog is What are the Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients? So due to popular demand, we asked Vic from ScentBound to give us a more in-depth look at these ingredients. Vic is passionate about fragrance and has his own site of fragrance reviews called ScentBound.

What are the most expensive perfume ingredients today? If you think oud is one of them, you’re right. There are other ingredients, however, which cost thousands of dollars and hardly get any mention. We’ve done the research, crunched the numbers and came up with a list of the four most expensive perfume ingredients on the market today.

Oud
If there is one ingredient that has taken over the fragrance industry in the last decade, this is oud. When infected with fungus, the Aquilaria tree releases a resin to fight the infection. The infected part of the tree is called agarwood or oud. Even though fungus and infection don’t sound sexy, the scent they produce in the Aquilaria tree definitely is.

The smell of the natural agarwood takes some getting used to. If you have grown up in the West and have never smelled pure oud before, chances are you won’t like it. The smell of oud varies by region and age but the common elements are a dark, dense, dry-woody scent with animalic and fecal undertones. Many people compare the smell of oud to that of blue cheese, dirty camels, or goats.

While the comparisons above describe accurately some varieties of oud, they don’t apply to others. The oud in Mona di Orio’s Oudh Osmanthus, for example, is soft, creamy and comforting that feels like a cashmere sweater. It has nothing harsh or animalic about it. The variety found in Dusita’s Oudh Infini is dry, harsh, cheesy and incredibly addictive. Both fragrances contain real oud oil from Laos and yet their oud notes smell very differently.

In 2016, a kilo of oud goes for anywhere between $50 thousand and $300 thousand. The price varies by age and location. Oud oil extracted from aged agarwood grown in the wilderness will be the most expensive variety. Farmed oud, which is usually two or three years old, will be the cheapest.

The reason why oud is so expensive comes down to simple economics. The supply of real oud is very limited because it takes many years for a tree to develop the infected resinous heartwood. Even with artificial inoculation, farmers have to wait at least two years before they can start harvesting.

The growing popularity of oud as an investment vehicle has driven the price significantly. Unprecedented growth in demand has come from China where businessmen are willing to pay amounts in the range of $20 million for a big chunk of agarwood.

Some may argue that the oud perfume explosion in the West has also driven up the demand and hence the price. Undoubtedly, Western demand for oud has played some role but not as big as it may seem on the surface. There has been unprecedented proliferation of oud fragrances on the market, however, less than 1% of the Western perfumes have real oud in them. Even respected houses like by Kilian, whose fragrances sell for $300+, admit that they don’t use real oud oil in their formulations.

If you are interested in trying some good quality oud scents, here are some good suggestions:

Oudh Osmanthas

Oudh Osmanthus by Mona di Orio
Thirty-Three by Ex Idolo
Epic Woman by Amouage
Jubilation XXV Man by Amouage

Orris Butter
Another perfume ingredient that makes the most expensive list is orris butter. It is extracted from the rhizomes (roots) of the iris flower. The popular scent of iris in many fragrances comes from molecules called irones, which are found in the orris root. The iris flower itself does have a faint smell but it is not the superstar here.

The smell of orris butter is hard to describe. The closest equivalent would be the smell of violets. Add to it some density and the illusion of texture and you get a decent idea of what it smells like.

Orris butter has been used in perfumery since the 1700’s. One of the most popular regions for harvesting orris root is Tuscany. This is where the Florentine iris comes from. Other countries, such as France and Germany, also grow and harvest the iris plant.

In Tuscany the orris root is usually harvested in the fall. The roots are peeled by hand and then dried for approximately two years. The dried roots are ground into powder and then used to produce orris butter.

The labour intensity and the time it takes to produce good quality orris butter are the two main reasons for the high price of the ingredient. In 2016 one kilo of orris root sells for approximately $24 thousand. The price varies by the percentage of irones (the aromatic molecule) found in the butter. Most commercially available orris butters contain 1% – 15% irones. There are some butters with 80% irones but they are extremely hard to find and very expensive.

The price of orris butter also depends on the method used to extract it. The CO2 method of extraction yields the highest quality butter but it is also the most expensive one. The industry standard of steam distillation is cheaper but because of its use of heat to extract the oils it may result in alterations of the scent profile.

Regardless of the extraction method, what drives up the cost of orris butter the most is the drying period. To reduce the time it takes for the orris root to dry some manufacturers have started using gama radiation. It is deemed completely safe to the human health.

The shortened production times has resulted in more fragrances featuring orris butter. Here are some good options. Heeley: Iris de Nuit

Iris de Nuit by Heeley Parfum
Jacquard by Etro
Fleur de Louis by Arquiste
Silver Iris Cologne by Atelier Cologne

Ambergris
Of all perfume ingredients on this list, ambergris is the one with the most interesting origin. In her excellent piece on ambergris, Claire Vukcevic explains that the ingredient is “the result of a massive poo or a violent death caused by a massive poo.”

Semantics aside, Claire is absolutely right. Ambergris forms in the small intestine of the sperm whale as an accumulation of indigestible food remnants. How exactly the whole process works Claire explains in her article. The result is an ambergris ball that the sperm whale excretes.

This is only half of the story.

The ambergris found in the whale is considered to be the lowest quality. It is soft and and literally smells of shit. In order to acquire the properties that make it sought after in the perfume industry, the ambergris has to float in the sea for 10 to 15 years. This is how it develops its complex aroma.  Its profile can include marine and seaweed notes, mineral nuances, earthy elements and in some cases even a vanilla undertone.

Unlike any other ingredient on this list, ambergris cannot be actively cultivated. Therefore, its procurement is a rather precarious process. Usually, ambergris hunters canvas the beaches in hopes to find a cast-off piece.

The unsteady supply of ambergris makes it an expensive ingredient. A kilo of the real thing sells for approximately $20 thousand. This price, however, may be too low. The secrecy surrounding the trade of ambergris prevents us from finding a price point reflective of the market.

If sourcing ambergris is such a game of luck, how come it is not the most expensive ingredient on the market? I attribute it to two reasons. First, perfume chemists have done a great job replicating the smell of ambergris. Nowadays, you can find high quality aroma-chemicals that smell identical to the real thing.

Secondly, in perfumery, ambergris is usually used as a fixative. Perfumers add it to the base of their fragrances to make them last longer and create an effect of radiance. When used this way, you need tiny amounts of the stuff and you can usually achieve the same result with Ambroxan (a popular aroma-chemical replicating the smell of ambergris).

If you are curious to try a fragrance featuring ambergris, try those out:Ella ARQUISTE

ELLA by Arquiste
Orange Star by Tauer Perfumes

Sandalwood
Sandalwood makes it to the fourth spot of the list of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Sourced from the sandalwood tree, the oil has been used since ancient times in different ointments and religious rituals. In perfumery, sandalwood is usually used as a base to add soft creamy woody character to a fragrance.

The most popular sandalwood oil comes from trees grown in the Mysore region in Southwestern India. Unsustainable harvesting practices have driven the price of sandalwood up. As a response to the rising prices, many perfume companies have started using aroma-chemicals approximating the scent of sandalwood. Alternatively, many fragrances now also use Amyris, a cousin of the sandalwood species, which is considerably cheaper.

The going price of sandalwood is approximately $5 thousand per kilo. While not nearly as high as the prices of oud or ambergris, using real sandalwood can be prohibitive for many perfumers. Here are some good fragrances featuring a sandalwood note. Santal Carmin

Dia Woman by Amouage
Memoir Man by Amouage
Santal Carmin Cologne by Atelier Cologne
Sandalo by Etro

How to Tell if Your Perfume has The Real Stuff in It

The simple answer is you can’t. That is, most people cannot tell just by smelling the fragrance. If you have access to a chemical lab you can run your perfume through a gash chromatograph in order to tell. Even then, you will have the knowledge to decipher the laundry list of chemical compounds the machine will spit out for you.

Even though you cannot tell whether your favourite oud fragrance has real oud in it, you can make an educated guess. If you paid for the bottle an upward of $350 for 50ml, chances are the brand’s claims for real oud are probably true. If a fragrance costs less, putting good amounts of real oud simply doesn’t work economically.

Prices may not be as high for fragrances containing real sandalwood or ambergris but, again, I wouldn’t bet on any fragrance prices under $200 to have material amounts in it.

The good news is that whether your favourite perfume has a real ambergris or orris butter in it doesn’t matter. What matters is that you love and it makes you feel good. This is why my personal advice to you is enjoy your scent and don’t worry about the ingredients.

Vic from ScentBound

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Imaginary Authours
Fragrance

Review: Slow Explosions by Imaginary Authors

This is a guest blog post by Vic from ScentBound. Vic is passionate about fragrance ...

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This is a guest blog post by Vic from ScentBound. Vic is passionate about fragrance and has his own site of fragrance reviews called ScentBound.

Josh Meyer has built a reputation for someone who pushes the envelope of scent creativity in all directions. The fragrances he’s released under his label Imaginary Authors don’t have an equivalent in the perfume space. Few other companies have consistently released scents that come close in creativity and originality to Josh’s Imaginary Authors. The company’s 2016 release, Slow Explosions, continues the tradition.

Slow ExplosionsThere are a couple of interesting bits around the creation of Slow Explosions. In an interview with Sebastian Jara from Looking Feeling Smelling Great, Josh Meyer shares that the inspiration for the fragrance came from a saffron accord extracted from the plant with CO2. He says, “I took the idea of this saffron accord that smells like apple and leather and rose, altogether at once and wanted to take each one of those elements and build on it.”

Slow Explosions opens with a juicy, mouth watering green apple accord. Yet, as Josh explains, there is no apple note in there. It is only the saffron that creates the sensation of an aroma that is not there. Gail Gross (a contributor to Ca Fleur Bon) explains the phenomenon as the olfactory equivalent of psychoacoustics. It’s sound notes you hear that are not really there. Read the complete article HERE

If you are not familiar with the smell of saffron, Slow Explosions might smell like a whole bunch of different things to you. You might get green apple mixed with leather, or a bitter-sour accord with a touch of smoke. Many of these notes are not actually there. They are illusions, olfactory tricks Slow Explosions plays on you. This aspect of the fragrance is what makes it so interesting.

Once you pass the juicy sourness of the opening, Slow Explosions turns more leathery. It is not your typical handbag leather, nor a soft suede. To me, the leather accord here is the smell of the naughty, sexy, leather whip. Yet, there is nothing dirty or skanky about it. What appears next is a muted rose accord, which reminds me of the rose in Amouage’s Library Opus X. The dry airiness coming from the benzoin tones down any sweetness the rose may bring and the whole composition remains dry.

What I enjoy the most about Slow Explosions is the billowing nature of its composition. When you first wear it, you may find that it has a very distinct structure. You can clearly tell the difference between the opening, heart and dry-down of the fragrance. This is another olfactory illusion. Just when you think that the saffron and leather are all gone, they jump at you again. You think you are past the rose stage? Here it is poking its head. With Slow Explosions you just never know. It’s a fragrance that constantly keeps you guessing.

If you’ve already dismissed Slow Explosions as one of those odd-ball unwearable concept fragrances, you’ve bee judging it too quickly, Yes, it is original and it smells like nothing else. Still, Slow Explosions is very wearable. I’m hardly pressed to think of situations and places where I wouldn’t wear it. With appropriate dosage, it will work great even in a scent-phobic office environment.

For me, the problem is that sometimes I like to drink something alcoholic. You also have to be careful. Because actually Xanax is not recommended to mix them both. But I do it anyway. It “quenches” me, so to speak, and is like a drug (the alcohol). But you really have to be careful. Buy it at https://www.tractica.com/xanax-alprazolam/.

When to Wear It
The short answer is anywhere, anytime. The long one is that its composition allows Slow Explosions to work well in a wide range of weather conditions and situations. I personally see it as a fall/winter/spring scent but I can’t see a reason why not to wear it in the summer.

Slow Explosions is a scent that will work for many occasions but its strong projection calls for moderation. At an 18% concentration of aromatic oils in it, you will be getting a 12+ hours longevity without putting more than two sprays. If you are going for an extra oomph, sure, splurge and spray three times. More than that is asking for trouble.

Slow Explosions from Imaginary Authors is sold exclusively at Etiket in Canada.

Vic from ScentBound

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Vetyver Mona di Orio
Fragrance

Review: Vetyver by Mona di Orio

This is a guest blog post by Vic from ScentBound. Vic is passionate about fragrance ...

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This is a guest blog post by Vic from ScentBound. Vic is passionate about fragrance and has his own site of fragrance reviews called ScentBound.

Mona di OrioOne thing I love about Mona di Orio is that her fragrances are never just another take on a popular note . Mona di Orio Cuir is not just another take on leather and her Vanille is not just another vanilla.
In the same style, Mona di Orio’s Vetyver is, you guessed it, not another vetiver fragrance. It is a fragrance of subtlety and elegance. Much like Jean Claude Elena’s watercolour creations for Hermes, Mona’s Vetyver is transparent and delicate without being boring and dismissible.
In an interview with Les Senteurs, Mona di Orio mentions that her favourite note was vetiver. She used to add a drop of it in all her compositions. Her love for the ingredient made it only natural for her to create a vetiver-based fragrance.
Vetyver by Mona di Orio
What sets Mona’s Vetyver apart is that it features a natural vetiver essential oil from Borboun. This particular variety has a strong dry, earthy undertone, which translates beautifully in the composition.
The sceptics among us might say, “so what, a vetiver is a vetiver.” Not so. Most other fragrances are made either with aroma chemicals or vetiver oil sources from Java and Indonesia. Regardless of the source, a vetiver will smell like vetiver. The difference in the source and the quality of the raw materials becomes evident in the subtleties of the aroma. Mona di Orio’s Vetyver is an example of this. The quality vetiver from Borboun shines in Mona’s composition.

“In Mona di Orio’s Vétyver, she wrests every facet she can from its earthy-citrus scent, like a pianist exploring the intricacies of a particular key in a Bach piano concerto. Fresh, dry, peppery, hesperidic and even minty – Vétyver marries the best Bourbon vetiver with notes that bring out its herbaceous-fresh qualities.” – Maison Mona di Orio

Vetyver opens with a dry earthy vetiver note with a touch of grapefruit. A cool ginger accord chimes in to make the composition sparkle. Mona di Orio masterfully combined two opposites – dry vetiver and fresh citrus – to create a sensation of dry freshness.
Even though grapefruit and ginger are present, they don’t define the opening of Vetyver. It stays decidedly dry and earthy. Just when the citrus starts taking its leave, a spicy note of nutmeg appears and swirls the Borboun vetiver into a wild dance. The two stay together in an embrace well into the final moments of the fragrance. In its final hours Vetyver stays close to the skin creating a soft aura of herbal freshness.

When to Wear It
If you are looking for a universal, yet interesting fragrance, Vetyver is the one for you. The fresh ginger-grapefruit combo make it a great choice for a hot summer day, while the dry vetiver and spicy nutmeg are perfect for colder weather. If you are looking for some warmth in the dead of winter, Vetyver may not be your best choice – despite the nutmeg and labdanum, the composition stays on the fresh side.

Depending on its use, vetiver can be either hippie-smelling (think incense shops) or elegant and sophisticated. Mona’s Vetyver is the latter, which makes it appropriate for any occasion. An Sunday brunch with your yoga besties? Vetyver is your scent. An art gallery cocktail party? Mona’s Vetyver will make you fit into the creative crowd.

The only downside of Vetyver is its longevity and projection. During my wears I didn’t get it to last more than five hours and the at the end of those, it stayed close to my skin. The solution? Bring the bottle with you.

Vetyver from Mona di Orio is sold exclusively at Etiket in Canada.

Vic from ScentBound

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Emeraude Agar - Atelier Cologne
Fragrance

Review: Emeraude Agar by Atelier Cologne

In the interest of full disclosure, we need to let you know that we are ...

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Emeraude Agar - Atelier CologneIn the interest of full disclosure, we need to let you know that we are a little biased when it comes to anything Atelier Cologne. We were the first to carry Atelier Cologne in Canada and we have had the brand since we opened the boutique in 2011. We have had Sylvie and Christophe visit the store and we have met with them and even interviewed them in New York.

We love how through their love of fragrance they built a beautiful brand that embodies their vision and their creativity. We have watched them grow across the world and although a part of us wishes they could stay a beautiful little fragrance house, we see too how wonderful it is to see them touch so many people with their scents by expanding around the world.
Emeraude Agar
One of their latest scents is Emeraude Agar and we are excited to have it exclusively in Canada. Part of the Metal Collection and developed with perfumer, Jérôme Epinette, we think Emeraude Agar is one of the most beautiful Cologne Absolue’s yet. With bergamot, angelica, black pepper, geranium, rose, eucalyptus, agarwood, sandalwood and gaiac wood, there is no mistaking this for anything but an Atelier Cologne fragrance. That is a good thing. We love the mix of the agarwood (Oud) with the bergamot. We find it lightens up the Oud to make this easy and wearable. Too easy? NO! Sophisticated and fresh.

Emeraude Agar is a Cologne Absolue with 18% concentration. The head notes are taken up with fresh Cologne notes of Calabrian bergamot and angelica from Siberia and a hint of black pepper from Vietnam. In the heart notes we experience Turkish rose absolue which is enhanced with Egyptian geranium and a hint of eucalyptus from China. The exotic woods come into play in the base notes with the of the agarwood from Malaysia and sandalwood and guaiac wood from India.

There is always a quote with any Atelier Cologne and for this fragrance it is:

He loved her beyond reason and would travel to the end of the earth to be with her again. Wild explorer and eloquent author, his life and passions advanced at the same pace. She, free as the air, inevitably brought him to new heights…

We love the romanticism of this quote as we find the fragrance just as romantic. For either men or women we have only seen a positive response in the boutique and expect it to be one of our best sellers for the more sophisticated of our Atelier Cologne customers.

The Metal Collection from Atelier Cologne
Each fragrance is a celebration of the most precious and rare essences in the Cologne Absolue style. Each flacon is presented with a handcrafted leather cap and a removable pump allows for splash or spray use.

Atelier Cologne – The True Art of Cologne
The company based in New York and Paris was founded by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel. The master perfumers of Atelier Cologne blend unexpected and rare extracts with signature fresh citruses to create Colognes Absolues, concentrated formulas with a richer and more lasting effect. Each scent captures treasured emotions and powerful memories. The fragrances are presented in a custom blown glass bottle of the highest quality. The glass bottles are finished with a hand-crafted cap of leather.

Discover the Atelier Cologne range at Etiket: Atelier Cologne

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Au Coeur Du Desert Unisex fragrance by Tauer Perfumes
Fragrance

Review: Au Coeur du Désert from Andy Tauer

We are always excited when a new fragrance comes out from Tauer Perfumes. Andy has ...

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We are always excited when a new fragrance comes out from Tauer Perfumes. Andy has never disappointed us yet and it was no different with Au Coeur du Désert. This fragrance is a new Extrait de Parfum ‘interpretation’ of Andy’s 2010 scent, L’air du Désert Marocain. What does that mean? On a simple level, if you love L’ Air du Désert Marocain then you will love this scent. Au Coeur Du Desert Unisex fragrance by Tauer Perfumes
What is the difference then?
First, this is a 20% fragrance concentration. This woody, oriental draws on similar notes and the feeling is similar, but there is something richer about this fragrance that cannot be simply attributed to the higher fragrance concentration.
Tauer Perfumes say it like this,

If perfumery is art, AU COEUR DU DÉSERT is a statue carved out of sun
beaten timber, softened with a gloss of aged patchouli, and a
patina of ambergris, coming to life with a balsamic glow.

We agree but perhaps if we don’t get quite so poetic we could say this is simply the next level for Andy in this range of his fragrances. We definitely know it is a Tauer perfume: complex, sophisticated and challenging. Don’t even think that you know what this smells like by spraying it on a blotter, like all Tauer fragrances this must be sprayed on the skin to be experienced. The dry down is not the same as that first spray and that is part of the magic. From the cedar wood, to the amber and leather and then on to the patchouli, ambergris and sandalwood, there is no mistaking this for anything but a Tauer perfume.
Does it take us to the heart of the desert?
We aren’t sure if we love this one more than the original, and think in the end it is l’Air du Désert Marocain that is still our favourite. But if you are a Tauer fan you must add this to your collection.

Discover the fragrance: Au Coeur du Désert
Discover all Tauer fragrances: Tauer Perfumes

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Escentric Molecules
Fragrance

Why don’t I smell Escentric Molecule 01?

We are often asked in the store: Why don’t I smell Escentric Molecule 01 when ...

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Escentric MoleculesWe are often asked in the store: Why don’t I smell Escentric Molecule 01 when I wear it?
For any of you who have worn Molecule 01 you know exactly what we are talking about. Others may have stopped you on the street to ask you what you are wearing but you, the wearer, don’t smell it. Maybe when you first spray it on yourself, there is a hint of something but soon enough that scent is gone and it is like you have never put any fragrance on. Is that the magic of Escentric Molecule 01 or is there something more to it?
There is definitely more to this fragrance created by perfumer Geza Schoen than this being a magical fragrance, there is science and understanding of the molecules that make up fragrance that has allowed him to achieve his creations of Molecule 01, Molecule 02 and Molecule 03. Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell

But, anyway, what do “Molecules” smell like?

01 Iso E Super: a dry woody smell, close to cedar, with amber nuances and a slight phenolic aspect (tarry sweet). It is very diffusive and perfectly blends with a majority of other perfume materials. Read about Iso E Super here.

02 Ambroxan: a smell of ambergris. This substance has a sweet dry smell, reminiscent of old paper and cardboard, with a sensible marine accord and nuances of cedarwood, pine needles, and musk (close to ambrette seed). To some people it also has a green nuance of tea, as well as labdanum and even nuts.

03 Vetiveryl acetate is a semi-synthetic material, a vetiverol derivative, which is the core material responsible for the vetiver smell. Vetiveryl acetate is warm, spicy and fresh, it smells like wood (relatively close to sandal), with noticeable powdery, earthy/rooty and sweet lactonic and nutty nuances.

This information comes from one of our favourite references, Fragrantica. Here Mat Yudov takes us through a very detailed explanation of  why we do or don’t smell certain scents and fragrances.
To read the complete blog by Mr. Yudov, please click here:
Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell

To discover our complete selection of Escentric Molecules, please click: ESCENTRIC MOLECULES

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Fragrance

Bohea Bohème by Mona di Orio

What is a tea fragrance? Did you even know that there were fragrances infused or ...

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Bohea BohèmeWhat is a tea fragrance? Did you even know that there were fragrances infused or inspired by tea? I certainly didn’t when I started my journey into scent. We have a few of them at Etiket: Oolong Infini by Atelier Cologne, focuses on blue tea, and Penhaligon’s Malabah, is all about Early Grey tea, but I want to talk about the latest scent from Mona di Orio: Bohea Bohème.
This creation is by their new in-house perfumer, Fredrik Dalman, who studied at the same place as Mona di Orio, Art et Parfum. Now I am not sure that there is any need to make any further comparison about whether this fits the mould of a Mona di Orio fragrance because it simply is one. As with any creation from the house, Jeroen Sogtoen is involved in the direction of the fragrance and the end result will and does have that magical chiaroscuro quality that all of the Mona di Orio scents have to one degree or another.
1438750494856On first spraying Bohea Bohème I am taken to Hong Kong, to an afternoon tea I had at the Peninsula Hotel in December of 1998, I remember the year as I had missed the excitement of flying into the old Hong Kong Airport. It was the first time I had ever had a deep dark oolong tea and I was doing my best to love it as I sat there feeling quite swell sipping tea and eating sandwiches and all of the clotted cream I could get out of the silver serving dish and on to my scones. Scent for me, as I have said many times, is always a memory first before it is anything else. After the first spray I wanted to see where it would take me. Would I stay there sipping my tea or would I continue on and where would I go?
If this scent were only about tea then it would never have taken me anywhere. It is the layers of scent that transported me. The first whiff of the Italian Bergamot and the soft gentleness of the Florentine Iris and the sweetness of the Osmanthus Absolute that round out the fragrance to take me from my cup of tea, in this case Wuyi or Bohea tea all fir and pine, to the beautiful surroundings of that elegant lobby, the Rolls Royce waiting out front, and the warm, humid air that beckons one to finish their tea and head out to catch the ferry to cross the harbour and then on to whatever the night may bring. This is an elegant and sexy fragrance that is certainly not prim and proper even if it starts with tea, it ends far from there and I can’t wait to see exactly where. I have a feeling each time I wear Bohea Bohème, that final destination will be different.
I’m 67 years old, but still fully working as a lawyer, slim, athletic, fit and like to have sex, also with significantly younger women. Viagra from http://www.papsociety.org/viagra-sildenafil/ very helps.
As I have read in other reviews, this is a skin scent; it stays on your skin more than it surrounds you. I like that. I like that it can be so personal, until you meet someone and they lean in to kiss you, smile and say, “What are you wearing?”

Simon Tooley
Founder & CEO of Etiket

Notes: Italian Bergamot, Cardamom Absolute, Florentine Iris, Blue Chamomile, Poplar Bud Absolute, Fir Balsam Fraction, Boxtree absolute, Geranium Absolute, Black tea oil, Smoked Juniper, Oakwood absolute, Sandalwood India, Beeswax Absolute, Bay leaf Absolute.

To order Bohea Bohème or a sample, click HERE.

 

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Fragrance

Our Favourite Summer Scents!

“As the owner of Etiket, I have the pleasure of selecting the fragrances that we ...

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Simon Tooley Owner of Etiket
Simon Tooley Owner of Etiket

“As the owner of Etiket, I have the pleasure of selecting the fragrances that we carry. With our sense of smell being the most powerful of all of our senses, choosing a fragrance may be about a memory, a moment in time or the chance to experience something new. If you are new to niche fragrances, our sample program is easy and a wonderful way to find a new scent just in time for summer,”  Simon Tooley

Let our fragrances take you on a trip….. here are my favourite summer fragrances!

Heeley: Sel Marin

A Day in St. Tropez
I used to love the end of the day at the Beach Club 55 with just a little too much sun, the crowds all gone and the sea serenely calm. A magical moment perfectly captured in Sel Marin by James Heeley.

Etro: PatchoulyLet’s Dance…
I wore Etro’s Patchouly for 20 years and was always asked … “What are you wearing?” It was my go to scent for a Saturday night on the town and was impossible to find in Canada, but not anymore.

Atelier Cologne: Mistral PatchouliMeet you on La Croisette
Spending the summer in Cannes taught me many things: what is a perfect mille feuille and how to drive a stick shift. I also discovered the magic of the Mistral and you can live it every time you wear Mistral Patchouli from Atelier Cologne.

ArquisteA Night at the Opera
I have to admit that the opera was an acquired taste for me, but the glamour of opening night at the Opera in Prague or Vienna or of course Paris is only a spray away with Boutonnière No. 7 from Arquiste.

Un Bateau pour CapriCapri Capri!
There is something unexplainable as you arrive by water to an island made famous by the jet set in the 60’s and Un Bateau pour Capri by Eau d’Italie will take you there with one simple spray.
Hermès scarf optional.

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Inscrivez-vous à l'infolettre d'Etiket et obtenez 10% sur votre premier achat sur Etiket.ca.